1980 Santana 20 HULL NO. I'm not quite sure I follow the concept of what he is recommending, since there is no gap between the fiberglass shell and the foam core. My next attempt will probably be some sort of two-part urethane coating concocted for full sun. Archives of Members Responding to Members, Subject Headings: Boat Handling, Repair, Equipment, Rigging, Launching, Trailer. Only problem you may have, (which is why I drop mine backwards) is that the foot of your mast must have a cutout in the front to allow the mast to rock forward without putting additional tension on the rigging. Chubaso has no forward lifelines or bow pulpit and the tiny bow is a quite terrifying place to be up on the trailer. The base of my mast is showing a slight bit of mushrooming. The Santana 20 is an American sailboat that was designed by W. Shad Turner as a day sailer, one design racer and pocket cruiser. This obviously slows me down going upwind. Previous owner may not have needed in NY but we need to reef in Texas. Sanding epoxy is much easier if you can let it thoroughly cure. Santana 20 Dacron Class mainsail: $1285. You can also use torlon - the stuff used in ball bearing cars - it is much harder but also harder to shape and more $.Reply 2:I'm not sure why you couldn't make it out of UMHW. #1 - clean bottom#2 - get that jib halyard fine tune installed for proper head sail shape.Other minor things:Nylon ramps under check stay tracks to give maximum forward lean mast when flying spinnaker?Rough tune and fine tune for back-stay?Windward sheeting traveler (not cheap unless you can pick up a used one. And as Santana 20s were raced in more and more breeze -- and broached, took on water, and capsized, things changed again. If there are spots on your deck where the gelcoat has worn thru, they could also produce fibers. What should the aft lower tension be on a boat that has no adjustable tracks? Haven't decided for sure. Most of the folks I know take them down aft. I think around 2 inches,perhaps 2.5". By "Dip", do you mean: drop the old guy out of the outer end, swing the pole thru the foretriangle without removing it from the mast ring, and then somehow getting the new guy into the outer end ? Then put what ever your preferred block is on them. The model is mounted on the Mahogany backboards. [1][2][3], The design was built by W. D. Schock Corp in the United States starting in 1976. The technical drawback to the barney post is that it has the tendency to tighten the leech of the sail when easing the traveler in breeze. A few things that you might already have. We also removed the keel. Then two more pieces of line are tied to the loop and those go to the winches on either side. The gross is a cleat on a triple at the connection point of the backstay and the boat. The changes did not affect the performance and these later production boats are accepted for one design racing with the earlier boats. of the repair, it would be greatly appreciated. So I compensate for this by playing the main sheet more and using the traveler to center the boom. Jibing is accomplished by detaching the pole from the old guy and stowing it on the boom, jibing the boom and then attaching the new guy on the other side.The pole is there to provide stability by keeping a second corner of the chute under control. I tie mine so that the boat is slightly bow down when picked up because I have to rotate my boat sometimes into the prevailing winds and if the bow is hanging lower it is easy.Also make sure you have a nice long bow line and stern line to control the boat with. Old post but I'm curious what length you came up with. I have also been thinking about doing this but at times I think that I like the mainsheet being on the traveler car. Another thought was to mount a Harken #140 Big Bullet Block with Cam Cleat near the halyard exit hole in the mast (similar to the jib halyard).Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. I flattened parts of those radii with angle grinder & sanding block. I don't have a length for you but I can tell what I went with. Never needed more than that, clean easy and light. At the Klamath Falls Nationals a few years back, Chris wanted too know how I was able to out point most everyone. But I wondered if I could buy an eye nut of the proper dimension and achieve the same thing? I used a three to one for years on the old style deck and for a while on the new deck. I have done this numerous times over the last 15 or so yrs. Anyone who has made the conversion want to provide some input? Also with the loose fibers it gives it a non-slip surface. There seems to be a number of options out there. I am realizing just how important those adjustments are, but until we can add them to the boat, we'll have to make do. No reason that shouldn't work. This is stabilized with longitudinal lines that attach to the mast base and somewhere at the back of the boat and lateral lines that attach to the main winches. I don't know if moving the main sheet attachment forward increases tension on the leech. Anyway I'm curious what most do. Please contact Mas at halfhull@gmail.com or visit the web at www.halfhull.net for more model information. As long as the tell tales are flying and the back of the main is "seeing" the wind, we are fast.you may be ok. Too much forestay sag and the lead too far forward could well be the problem - the mainsail could also be too full - try more outhaul and Backstay (if overpowered) to flatten the sail. You should never have your genoa car back that far so think of it as saving weight. In light air and down wind there should be basically NO tension on the aft lowers.I've never used a loos gauge on the aft lowers when using them in heavier air but they should be used in concert with the backstay in heavier wind. We only used the top and bottom templates. What do you guys think. By 1994 there were active racing fleets on the United States west coast, as well as in Florida, Indiana, Oklahoma and Texas. Too much on the aft lowers and you will have a really weird mast shape.It's not cheep but moving to adjustable aft lowers is a great idea. Second, get the proper mast rake, and third, correctly control the amount of mast bend and headstay sag you have while sailing. I figure I can just replace it with PVC or something similar and Mclube the crud out of it before every race, but I wanted to know if anyone had any other solutions. We have raced all over the country and in 20+ regularly. It has a fractional sloop rig, a raked stem , a raised counter reverse transom , an internally mounted spade-type rudder controlled by a tiller with an extension and a fixed fin keel . Part two of the question is what length and diameter do you like?